hi guys and gals,
this is just a test… want to know what you think
please do comment..
:shock:
yaks!
I Luv iT!
great work!
gr8 depth…amazing!
congratulations
Looks like a photo to me! Nice
please dominique can u share some more info on that?
hi bros, thanks for the replies.
and also thanks to you enexis for the lwf thing, i followed your
threads and voila, that’s what i get. one thing though,
i don’t use colorcorrect. i only use it when i have png as a
bitmap.
the setting was like:
irrmap/lightcache
adaptive anti aliasing
filter is catmull rom
one light behind camera, few lights in those light fittings
well, that’s all i guess…
oh yes, vray frame buffer,
and the rest is as the same as your thread with lukx and stevec in the
tutorial section..and Admax, thanks alot for this!!! heheh
Looks great!
Great work Dominique.
Its good to see an interior from you.
Well done.. good to see more people grasping LWF
thanks da force 
again, this looks great!
lookin forward to see more stuff from u now… 
thanks enexis,
by the way, i have a question : when do you usually use that
decay and no decay? i mean, do you tick the box for no decay in
vray lights for sun, or for lights from outside? been wandering about this and keep it for myself because i thought it was a dumb question, but,
i rather people call me dumb rather than i keep myself in the dark… and keep on wandering something like that
Decay controlls whether your light will fade away with the distance.
In real life all the lights do fade (falloffs). So if you chose -tick the
< No decay > option, your light will not have that falloff-fade.
Best regards,
nikki Candelero
goodbye Minwell… I mean Maxwell
Good job Dominique !
Nice textures and composition. I personnally dislike the chairs but that’s a personal taste 
Just about lightning, I would avoid placing a light right behind your cam, it’s flattening the light of your composition. An angle of min 20/30 should be a minimum between the cam direction and the light direction. Even a fill light need to be on another axis.
This should add some contrast to your image, which imo needs it a bit more.
About the falloff, it adds realism to the lightning to always put inverse square decay on all your lights (like in the real world) but then you’ll have to push the value of the light over 100, and sometimes over 1000. You’ll also have to handle some overexposed parts near the sources (working lwf will help you with that i think) Also please note that the sunlight NEVER should have decay (in fact it has, but compared to the sun/earth distance, your scene is always negligible) and ALWAYS has to have area shadow.
If someone has an accurate technique to mesure the exact area shadow parameters to match the real sun shadows, i’m intrested
1/100 of sun height (if I’m not mistaken)
Looks really good, but I must say I miss non-LWF shadows and contrast…
thanks guys for the replies and the comments and the advises. really really appreciated them. this one i tweak a bit in the photoshop. “fake” , but well.. it goes well with printing.
The contrast looks much better now!
really nice one.
very impressive