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i was wondering about the method you use to create the HDRI out of studio flash. Since the Studio flash shoot at a certain speed, if you fixed the aperture on your camera, and bracketing the speed of the camera like you would do for an exterior panorama for instance, than you would face some range exposure limitation. Maybe there's a way to work around this problem ?
There are a couple of ways: ND filtering is one, but in most cases you can just dial the power pack up and down, usually in 1/3 stop increments. Older packs have less options, but you usually have at least 3-4 power level options. You can also just use the modeling light and bracket by shutter speed - but that depends on the light and/or how close you want to be to the look of the strobe versus the model light with that particular light.
i see ... so let's say you want to make an hdri of a whole studio photo setup (360 pano) , it's going to take a little more time than your usual outdoor hdri
For a whole studio, done with strobes, then yes it will take a bit more time if you have a lot of lights. However, you can mostly get away with using the modeling lights and doing it all in the lens. Depends on how accurate your modeling lights are (i.e relative brightness of various lights to each other). For the most part the difference between the strobe and modeling lights is not so much distribution but brightness, but that can also be a factor so you'll have to test it yourself with your lights to be sure.
Personally, I don't think it's all that useful to do studio setups as HDRI though. For most stuff that you would want to do a studio setup you probably need more individual control of lights, but that's just my opinion.
Personally, I don't think it's all that useful to do studio setups as HDRI though. For most stuff that you would want to do a studio setup you probably need more individual control of lights, but that's just my opinion.
if you do shoot in an empty studio, with only the lights and the backdrop than i must admit that it's not that usefull, especially if you can reproduce the light setup easily in max. But if you shoot in a more complex environment, than i think it would still be usefull when you have to integrate seamlessly a 3D elements into this photoshoot.
Right - for matching an actual shoot you have to do it that way. I wasn't thinking about that kind of situation You may want to consider a set of ND filters for your camera if this is something you will have to do a lot. They are not cheap, but if you have a budget and/or you'll need to do it a lot then that could easily pay for itself in time saved.
yes i will look into that solution that must be time consuming though : having to change the ND filters. i was wondering if you could fit them on the fisheye sigma 8mm. I will have to look more into it
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