Haven't had time to try this with the Vray Physical Camera, but in real life an ASA of 800 would only be used for dark interiors. Try a lower ASA like 125 for example and compensate the f-stop
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VraySun+Vray physicalcam for exterior,what work?
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Well, there's something i don't quite get.
Do you go about, in real life, shooting outdoor, clear-sky midday-lit shots with an 800iso film?
I'd say i'd use a 100iso one, and compensate for that with a lower F-number.
Also, aperture times will linearly influence the amount of light that gets in, small ones generally are more contrasted, high ones tend to wash the picture out a bit more under unvarying contour conditions(iso/F).
I prepared a script that changes Isos automatically to balance a frame, and it can work for animations too (turning on autoKey, and rendering at different frames).
It's a departure from the full usage of all the camera parameters (f-stops and exposure timings aren't touched, so no animation setting gets messed up in the process), but when used properly it will balance your shot correctly.
Have a look at it here:
http://www.chaosgroup.com/forum/phpB...er=asc&start=0
And further down the second page there's some more in-depth ranting about its usage.
Hope it helps,
Lele
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I would have thought if anything you'd fix your f-stop so you get no depth of field (f-11 or up) and use your shutter to compensate for the amount of light - again this doesnt really matter if you have motion blur and depth of field turned off though.
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Remember in the "Real World" you would have a film stock. If you are in the field you probably wont be switching films too often. So you set up your scene based on that standard. Then you only have 1 or 2 valid exposure options.
If you can change your film stock you have many more ways of exposing the stock to the SAME amount of light to take the same image.
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SutdioDim:Well, there's something i don't quite get.
Do you go about, in real life, shooting outdoor, clear-sky midday-lit shots with an 800iso film?
Thats my point, in real life with thoses camera setup the image should be overexposed! But its not in vray, so why all those setup to fit a real camera but it does nt react like a real one?
Thanks for you answer StudioDim i will take a look shortly at your pointer, ill come back to post on it later.
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Anyone having issues with white dots in exteriors with VRAYSUN and SKY and physical cam in reflections? Im going crazy with it. If no one is having problems with it, i will post a separate threads showing the problems...My Youtube VFX Channel - http://www.youtube.com/panthon
Sonata in motion - My first VFX short film made with VRAY. http://vimeo.com/1645673
Sunset Day - My upcoming VFX short: http://www.vimeo.com/2578420
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panthon, would you mind posting up a little image of the issue?
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As i dont want to hijack this thread, i will post in a separate one. I´ll see if i can create a simple scene for testing purposes.My Youtube VFX Channel - http://www.youtube.com/panthon
Sonata in motion - My first VFX short film made with VRAY. http://vimeo.com/1645673
Sunset Day - My upcoming VFX short: http://www.vimeo.com/2578420
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Hell yeah dont hijack my post! lol just kidding, but no jokes did nt really get any answer i was looking for, thx for help anyway! If anyones can share the orientation you take with exterior scene for animation with 1.5, that would be appreciated.
I ll post some images when im done with this project.
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What I start with, see if this helps.
I load a HDRI into the max environment slot, shove the multiplier up to about 15-20, match the sun position with a vray sphere light and then stick in a physical camera. Turn exposure on, and go nuts with random values till it loks good.
I never use the same global lighting setup because it forces me to redo them every time.
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